I’ve been in Kigali for less than a week and I feel like I’ve been here for ages. There’s something about this place the just feels comfortable. I had a good feeling about the country as soon as I boarded the clean, spacious, road-worthy bus at the Tanzanian border that was driven at a normal speed to Kigali. When I pulled into the city, I was met with rolling hills, beautiful views and friendly people and I knew I would like it here.
It helped that I had arranged to stay with a Belgian friend of mine who I met as a volunteer in Gonaives, Haiti. She’s been in Kigali for five months doing an internship at a school close to the city centre and had a pretty sweet room ready for me when I arrived. She’s been here for five months and is about to head off to do some travelling, but I can stay for as long as I need to. The school gave her a fantastic send off yesterday with singing and dancing, much of which was done by children and was slightly pornographic, but their parents were there, so I guess it’s ok? The only other time I’ve seen so much ass-shaking by a pre-teen was in Haiti. Thankfully, the Rwandan children kept the lap dancing to a minimum.
My friend has forged some great relationships through her work at the school which was obvious from the multiple gifts she received (my personal favourite was the set of six wine glasses – totally impractical considering her next move is to travel by bumpy bus to through Uganda and Kenya to Tanzania) and the tears that were shed. Schools and kids aren’t my thing but I feel like if I don’t get involved in some sort of volunteer work, I’ll be missing out on a great opportunity not only to help out a bit but also to meet some fantastic people, get involved in some interesting projects and learn about Rwanda from a more authentic perspective.
On the surface, Kigali appears have it’s shit together with good roads, nice supermarkets, internet access, and clean streets. Besides the occasional water or power outage, I feel like I could be anywhere in the world. I think the reality is a lot more sinister with people fearful of openly criticizing the government, people living in shacks in the valleys without clean drinking water, and all of the usual issues found in any developing country. It would be really easy for me to come here, work on my internet stuff, hang out at expat places, make a nice circle of expat friends and live a great life but I would really start to hate myself for it, if I did. It’s easy to get comfortable and to stay in the expat bubble but I’m going to do my best to get involved in the community through volunteer work and learn as much as I can about Rwanda.
I haven’t found any volunteering opportunities yet, but I have managed to get my act together a lot quicker than usual and have landed a place to live already. I had been in touch with a bunch of people but only looked at two houses before I made my choice. The first was a little out of town but it was a great place with a fantastic view, a nice kitchen, two bathrooms and a dog. Part of the rent went towards the NGO As We Forgive which seems like a great cause (and hopefully one I will be able to help out with). The second house, and the one I decided on, is a bit closer to town, a bit cheaper and it has an avocado tree in the backyard that’ll be ready at the end of August to feed me. How could I possibly resist an avocado tree? The people are nice and I actually found the place through a contact on Twitter and I’ll be staying in the same room as her. Small world.
I’m pretty excited about staying put for awhile and it looks like Kigali will be a great fit. Any city that has motorcycle taxis for me to zip around on and back yards with avocado trees is ok with me!
Wow it’s great to hear someone doing the location independent thing somewhere so unusual. Africa isn’t that common a destination so it’s going to be really useful to hear how you get on. Sounds great so far.
I was talking to someone the other day who had spent a lot of time in Africa about plans and she said, “Well, maybe you can regroup and rest up in Rwanda.” Other people around looked at her odd, as the first image that usually comes to mind with Rwanda is genocide. But, I keep hearing over and over again that Kigali and other parts of Rwanda are really pleasant and interesting to visit these days.
Oh, I and I would have opted for the house with the avocado tree in the back yard, too. A direct source to a perfect food.
So glad you’re happy in Kigali and Rwanda. I agree that it’d make a wonderful place to spend a few months, and can relate to many of your observations from my visit.
Yum, avocados! I remember they were served as soups or sides with just about every meal, whether in a hotel restaurant, or during my homestay.
Hope you’ll continue to share your thoughts about Rwanda and help get the word out.
So it seems we’re hearing from you a little more often these days. That’s great! Now that you have a place, I think it would be really great if you could do a post on how much things cost and what kind of entertainment you have there. I’m fascinated by the thought of you living in Rwanda, and I’m very curious about the cost of living and the prospects for volunteer work. And please… more pictures!!
I see you finally made it to Kigali! Isn’t it crazy how westernized the city is? I had the same impression when I took my first bus ride in the country- it’s such a beautiful landscape there. Enjoy it!
Good to hear you’re doing so well over there. I’m sure you’ll find a place for volunteering soon.
I certainly wouldn’t turn down a place with an avocado tree either! That sounds more than ideal to me…
A good friend who is volunteering in Uganda regularly goes to Rwanda during her work breaks and she too has spoken very highly about Kigali. It’s definitely not a place I know much about and I’m actually quite surprised by your description!
I’m also looking forward to hearing more about your time there as it’s not a place we normally read too much about…
Ditto good to hear from you so often, Internet must be good in Africa would also be interested in photos of digs and general living costs..
you will always fine a comfortable places to fit your life. how much do it cost?
I’m jealous of that avocado tree. Here in Bangkok it’s almost impossible to find avocadoes and if you do they are sub-par compared with those giant African ones. When I get back to Tanzania, I will definitely over eat them and love it.
Very cool, I’m excited to see the things that you get into while in Rwanda.
Hey Kirsty,
I’ve just stumbled upon your blog via twitter, and I’m inspired! I am passionate about volunteering, and have been fortunate enough to volunteer in some pretty amazing places so far. After studying volcanology and natural hazards at university I have always wanted to get involved with disaster relief volunteering, and your blog has been an invaluable resource in giving me a good kick ap the ass to do something about it!
As for Kigali, you should definitely go to the club new cadalct (one of the best nights out in Africa in my opinion) and if you get the chance, you should try and visit the Mgahinga community project just over the border in Kisoro, Uganda! I had an incredible time volunteering there last summer, and am doing my best to head back this summer (I await the verdict from the bank manager!) It is a small communtiy run volunteering project, and the work they are doing there is simply fantastic!
If you want any more information about Rwanda, Uganda, Burundi, or DR Congo, then please feel free to contact me!
Thanks again for such an inspirational blog!
Andy
I received a call from Faycal asking if I would come see him sing at the Serena or the Mille Collines. All the presidents of the East African countries are in town, and he was asked to perform for them at the Serena.
It is interesting to hear about Rwanda. It is one of those countries that most people know very little about. Kigali sounds great, but it is too bad there is also a lot of poverty and other problems that are hidden from the public view.
Hi Laptop Attache…actually there is something you are forgeting,Rwanda is not a developed country and what it is doing now is to develop all the sides of it’s citizens and i hope since children are being educated on a big number they will have a good impact on changing those poor places you are saying.and i do really want to tell you that the country has improved so much compared to last few decades..if you are a Rwandan, i would request you and other Rwandans to keep working hard and make the good vision of the country not only critisizing..thanks and God bless you
It is the country’s main administrative and economic center. The city has an international airport and road access to all of the country’s borders. Iron ore is mined nearby, and the city built a smelting plant in the 1980s.
That must be really exciting. How wonderful it must be to be able to set up and work in such a place. I can’t wait to hear more about the area you are in.It sound breath taking.
i just watched amazing race and they are in africa. people in africa are really amazing. I hope i can go there too. reading your blog makes me feel so good. i wish i could read more of your work.thanks for sharing this one.