Jul 16 2010
Short Skirts and Learning to Say Yes

After my fantastic couchsurfing experience with Gabriel and his family I was ready to head up to Arusha to get my safari on. I bought my ticket at a manic bus station and was on the bus the next morning bright and early at 5:30am. I was happy to have Gabriel’s security guard help me find the bus as it was a pretty crazy scene, even so early in the morning.
A short while into the nine hour journey Muhammad, the guy sitting next to me, starting chatting to me with the whole ‘where are you from, where are you going, what are you doing, how do you like the weather’ spiel. He’s originally from Kenya but lives in London with his family and he’s in Tanzania for a wedding. His two brothers were sitting in the seats in front of me and after chatting for awhile they all insisted I come to the wedding party that evening at their family home in Arusha. Not having any plans for the evening… sure, why not?
Knowing that the party would be attended entirely by Muslims and not having anything that would cover my legs besides jeans, I was worried about what to wear. I asked Mohammed if a skirt that only went just a little bit past my knees would be ok. He waved me off and said ‘of course, no problem’. Sweet, I suddenly had an outfit.
The night started off with that awkward bit where nothing is really happening yet and everyone around you is speaking in another language. I got the occasional question aimed at me in English or curious look from across the room but for the most part I was staring off into space. Fortunately, the room was filled with colourful decorations and flashing lights that kept my interest for the 20 minutes until everyone arrived.
I’ve been to a lot of places where conservative dress is required, but since Tanzania has a mix of Christianity, Islam and a bunch of others, I thought dress might be a bit more lax than in places like Bangladesh and Indonesia. Well I rocked up and instantly felt like a knee-flashing floozy. I was ok when I was standing up (although that’s debatable because everyone else was covered up to their ankles) but when I sat down, my indecent knees suddenly became exposed and I suddenly became extremely self-conscious of them.
It didn’t help at all that I was sitting in a fairly central location and people were coming up to me all the time to introduce themselves. I wanted to shrink into the shadows but it wasn’t going to happen. Gifts seemed to be exchanged between every member of the family with each person taking a turn sitting in a chair at the front and having photos taken of every other person with them and their gift. Eventually the bride sat in the chair and the major gift-giving, congratulations-giving event began. At the end I was motioned to go up to the bride and congratulate her. Everyone else had already been up for the kiss on the cheek photo op and they didn’t want to leave me out, so up I went, knees and all. The bride was sitting on a chair at the front illuminated by a super bright spotlight for the video camera so there was no escape. I went up for my photo standing beside her holding her hand and then leaned over to give her an awkward kiss on the cheek. I think I might have flashed my boobs to the whole crowd as I bent over. Ah crap.
Later on we went upstairs to repeat the entire process but this time, with the groom. Gifts were given to the groom and then again to the same people that got gifts the first time around. This time they just happened to be in a different room. In this room I was led to a spot on the floor to sit. I love sitting on the floor and can sit cross-legged for a ridiculously long time with no problems. But I couldn’t really have pulled that off in my semi-short skirt so I had to fling my legs to one side and sit like that for about a half hour. I thought my legs were going to fall off after about 5 minutes but readjusting could have led to a possible flashing of the people sitting across from me. I couldn’t really move around subtly either because I was plopped down right near the groom with that same godforsaken spotlight on me the whole time. Eventually I stole some woman’s chair while she was up giving a gift to the groom. Yes, that makes me a terrible person, but it was that or sacrifice my legs in the name of decency.
My favourite part of the ceremony was when people would give a square of chocolate (I wonder if Cadbury’s know they’re a part of Indian/Swahili/Muslim weddings in Tanzania?) to the bride as some sort of ritual thing where she would eat a square. As they did it, they would be looking at the camera posing for the photo and not really paying attention to where the chocolate was going. It was obvious that the bride only wanted to bite off a small corner and it was funny to see her resisting the square with her teeth while trying to smile for the camera as the chocolate was continually smooshed in her face. Priceless.
Through the entire gift-giving process was pretty cool but what really sold me on the whole event was the singing. Damn there was some serious singing going on. Lots of praising of Allah and just really joyful songs that everyone seemed to know the words to. It would take a lot of booze flowing before anyone I know busted into song so ferociously! It was a really great family atmosphere at a special event and I feel lucky to be invited into that.
Something I think really allows people to have these amazing experiences is being open and not so quick to say ‘no’ to crazy ideas or invitations from strangers. I’ve never been too good at accepting generous offers of hospitality or invites. I think I’ve always been too scared of being put in an awkward situation and I think I have still a fear of encroaching on their private lives or of taking up too much of people’s time. I think people are very eager to share their lives and show travellers their country… I think it just comes down to us letting them.
What’s the most random thing that’s happened to you on your travels because you said ‘yes’ to a crazy idea or invite?
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Another great experience! Saying yes to invites definitely can be rewarding. A few years back, I was traveling in Japan. My brother’s wife is Japanese and she told me to go up north and visit her sister and her family. When I got there, her husband took me out to meet his friends, who were grilling octopus tentacles, salmon and asparagus on their hibachi. We started drinking Sapporo beer and eating everything in sight. I couldn’t speak any Japanese and they didn’t speak English. Then they took me to a bar and then to a restaurant for more adult beverages. One by one, they were passing out and dropping out of the “pub crawl” that seemed to be going on. The group was getting smaller as we moved from place to place.
I woke up the next morning wondering where I was. They had taken me back to the sister’s place to sleep it off. I still wonder how I got there, but I suppose we all have a story like that? I’ll always remember their kind hospitality. Japan is one of my favorite places to visit.
This is such a great story! From this and other posts, it sounds like you’re having a really great time in east Africa.
Keeping on the wedding theme. When we were in Cambodia a few years ago, Dan was invited to eat bugs with some locals. He went for it and I used manning the camera as an excuse for not partaking. Next thing we know, we’re invited over to this family’s house and then to their nephew’s Buddhist blessing ceremony for his wedding the next day. While I was anxious at first at accepting because we would be “imposing” it seemed like the family really enjoyed having us there and that we loved their food. And, it ended up being one of the highlights of our visit to Cambodia
When I have a big enough place to live then I am going to open my doors to couchsurfing, done a bit myself and its a great way of learning about culture and where you are..
I’m interested in the singing bit. I go to several community choirs and we learn songs from all over the world — Croatia, Russia, Congo, South Africa, Caribbean, native American, Scottish, Israeli, you name it. Plenty of Christian especially Gospel songs — I don’t profess any belief, but if it’s a good tune, I like it! But no Moslem songs.
I wonder if the Moslems have their own repertoire of songs — whether praising Allah or otherwise — which does not overlap at all with what we are familiar with.
This is a really great story! Thanks for sharing.
I’ve had some similar stories especially in Congo, attending funerals, weddings, and in Nairobi, just attending ultra random parties. In Chile, I was lusting at the menu of a beef restaurant when a waitress finished her shift. She told us the restaurant was delicious and we told her it was a little too pricey. She then invited us over to her house where her entire family took care of us, and fed us, in the midst of frigid weather for an entire night. The Grandmother even decided to pack a lunch for us to-go for the next day.
Didn’t know about the Cadbury’s chocolate, that’s pretty cool!
Totally agree with you that saying yes and being open to invitations can lead to some of the best travel experiences. I think its important to leave to comfort zone of hostels etc when possible. The insights into peoples lives that you get are often quite incredible.
Amusing story Kirsty. Sounds like you need to pack a longer dress next time. That’s great that you accepted the random invitation. The automatic reaction for many people is to just politely decline. As a result you got to experience something unique that you may never get a chance to partake in again.
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After fantastic couchsurfing article its also interesting story and its also very very interested.
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