My first impression of South Africa came about 5 minutes after getting in a taxi on a journey from the Cape Town airport into town. There’s a section along the highway on the left as you drive into the city that’s made up of shacks similar to the temporary shelters made of scrap tin Haitians were living in after the earthquake. The difference is that, in Haiti, those structure are (or are meant to be) temporary. A bit further up the highway were some more respectable houses that were almost identical to the transitional shelters we were building in Indonesia. Again, a temporary measure in Indonesia but seemingly permanent in South Africa.
A few days later I found myself in a car with a couple of friends cruising down the Garden Route between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town. The scenery was beautiful but really struck me was the amazing houses along the way. So many huge places with fancy cars in the driveway surrounded by electric security fences. Then as we drove on, on the outskirts of each town… more shacks.
I spent couple of days in Durban walking around, one day I was searching for a specific cafe, and the other I was looking for a street full of cafes (I love my cafes!) Each time I strolled for about an hour, passing through some ghetto-looking areas with people passed out on the sidewalks or begging on the street corners. When I found my destinations, I was suddenly met with pristine little communities full of white people in SUVs.
I had a conversation one night with an English girl who was volunteering in a rural community inland. She was spending her time doing different kinds of work including spending a few days teaching in a local school. She said that some of the students were over 20, that they didn’t have desks and chairs, and that they were pretty well behaved because, if they acted up, they were struck with a stick that had thorns in it. The fact that a 22 year old, unqualified volunteer was asked to teach basic classes is also a bit alarming.
Then there’s the conversation I had in South Africa with a local Capetonian (is that the right word?) telling me not to take the minivans because they stink because ‘those people’ don’t have showers. Then there was the airport transfer guy who dropped me off about 10 minutes ago. He was telling me how the Durban waterfront used to be filthy and then went on to say ‘for some people, cleanliness is not an option’ and then immediately after that asked me if many blacks stayed at my hostel, and then went on to say ‘some of them are good people.’ Not sure what that was all about but it certainly left me with a bad taste in my mouth.
These are just a few things that have caught my attention since I’ve been here although I have to admit that I haven’t delved too deeply into South Africa or the issues it faces. I’ve either been watching football games, driving around the country, or hiding in my room working on my websites. The conversations I’ve had so far with locals have been short and shallow and I haven’t put much effort into understanding the things I’m seeing and hearing. But this country fascinates me and you can be sure that when I get back in however many months, I will make a big effort into learning about this place. I wonder if most white people over a certain age are racist. I wonder what the younger generation think of their country. I want to know what black people think has changed and what else needs to happen before they’re firmly on equal footing economically. On the surface, the rich/poor divide is appalling and I want to see how bad it really is.
It’s probably naive to think that I will be able to get the sorts of answers I’m looking for but I’ll have a crack at it when I return. I want to Couchsurf with South Africans, do work exchanges on farms and volunteer in rural communities. But, for now, South Africa will have to wait. I’m off to Tanzania today to catch up with my Aussie friends who are in Zanzibar on the end of their overland tour. Then it’s off to Rwanda, another country I find fascinating, to visit an aid worker friend. If I like Kigali I might look into staying for a few months. Otherwise, it’s off to Uganda to do some volunteer work on a farm with a guy who is working with local communities on food security issues.
I’m excited to get up into the heart of Africa but sad to cut my time in South Africa short because there’s so much I want to know about this place. Have you been to South Africa? What did you think?
The story of the shack dwellers’ struggle dates back to the pre-apartheid period, when there was a policy to remove the urban informal settlements from city centres to allow for gentrification of the areas. The 1994 South African Constitution directly addressed the needs of shack dwellers by stating that new homes would be built to house them. However, rather than build homes on the existing land, the ANC Government has built poor-quality, inadequate homes on the outskirts of cities, where there is no transport or other infrastructure, mirroring the Apartheid era when non-whites were moved to locations far from the centre of cities.
It is very interesting how sharp the line is between the good community’s and the outskirts of them. I imagine is can be overwhelming and hard to see such things. I admire your want to learn more about the country and especially South Africa. I am fortunate to have been able to go there for an opening ceremony was being done for a small community center and hospital that my Friends Father helped to build. It was a great and humbling experience.
Fascinating post, especially for me since I’ve been considering a trip to South Africa sometime after I visit Argentina. Your observations echo my perceptions, unfortunately. Thanks for the read!
Interesting Post, I never been to South Africa before but I heard so many stories. I learned a lot from this post, I did not know it was like that. Its crazy how you can go from a rich neighborhood then 5 minutes later see shacks set up.
Its really a wonderful place to visit. The post describing the whole scenario very well. South Africa is seen as a key leader among developing countries on issues such as climate change, conservation, and biodiversity. Thanks for such awesome post. keep updating like that.
Kirsty – I went to Guadalajara, Mexico on a business trip one time and I was also shocked to see the tin and cardboard shacks lined up all along the road from the airport where people were living. As we got closer to town, it got better, but not by much. I’ve never been able to get that out of my head. Your post brought back those vivid memories. Thanks for the post and for something to ponder.
Most of the people who have jobs work as cleaners in rich houses or as street traders, selling clothes, for example. But the majority end up unemployed so have to set up their own businesses, like stalls in the shanty town.
The same thing goes on in the Dominican Republic. Same crappy shacks on beaches with loads of garbage in their yards and city streets. At the same time, people living there seem to be taking it easy, walking like nothing is there.
The cities are pretty nice, though. OK, so maybe they don’t have money for houses and even plumbing, but for crying out loud, clean up the streets and dump or burn that garbage, people! The only thing on my mind looking at that was “WTF, come on, really!?”
I can bet those Haitian shacks will stay there for a long time to come, but only partly because of the government. Say what you will, but the culture of people does a lot for their living conditions.
I traveled around South Africa and Madagascar in 2005 and was really struck by the poverty. The contrast in South Africa was more striking because of the large number of rich white folk which I didn’t really see in Madagascar. The gated communities just for whites were especially shocking for me coming from the UK.
Louis Theroux made an excellent documentary about racism in South Africa where he met up with lots of South Africans, each with different perspectives and opinions. I highly recommend you check it out, if only to witness the lunacy of Eugene Terreblance whom he met along the way.
Sorry for butting in again, here are some photos of Uganda (yeah, the first one is a town street, near the center of the town):
http://picasaweb.google.ru/lh/photo/ZdNXhfbte8uAPW3OI0Du8A?feat=embedwebsite
http://picasaweb.google.ru/lh/photo/TZEYLC-a8tS4ppyv6RlPNw?feat=embedwebsite
Hey Kirsty, long time. I’ll catch up eventually. As I’m sure you’ve noticed, internet in Africa is slow… Did you go to any World Cup games? I think understanding South Africa will take some time, and even then, it might not fit into our world of understanding. I was struck by many of the same issues as you were upon arrival. I’ve read a few books on SA while here and it still boggles my mind. There is a 23 year old South African Afrikaner on our truck who is absolutely wonderful and open-minded. Times are changing. Safe travels.
I heard that racism runs deep in South Africa. It is very rude and unfair for a group of people to be talked about in that manner.
It’s also interesting how the the scenery can change so quickly. It is cruel for a struggling person living in poverty to know that the people further down the road have a nice house, sufficient food, and comforts like electricity. It’s enough to drive one to insanity.
I hate the language that Micheal used such animals and flies, I have to agree that sometimes beggars can be annoying, rude and demanding. I take the 7 train in NY and there is man who demands the help of commuters and if no one gives him money he accuse people people of being heartless. I just don’t like to be forced to help someone.
There are many nations that have similar problems, you know Brazil which is going to host the 2014 FIFA World Cup also has issues of poverty and many people living in very very poor homes, alot of unpaved road, In Brazil they call it the “favelas”.
Till then,
Jean
The weather in South Africa is brilliant,” he said. “Wintertime you can still play some days in shorts there.
By hosting the FIFA World Cup 2010, South Africa has proved that times are changing very fast – but I still think Africa has to be pushed to keep on moving.